More 7 Year Old Surf Art

Kids art never seems to get old.  Here is more surf art from 7 year old Austin from Japan.  His mom sent these in a while ago and I just remembered I had them.  Enjoy.

Spot Appreciation Day

A few years back I had a Christmas party and I made these logos for everyone to have stickers of their favorite spot. If you surf in Leucadia you know what these mean and where they are. If you don't... I'm not telling! The party was fun as everyone picked out their favorite spot and wore it proudly.

Your spot is an interesting thing. You hold it close to you and very rarely share its secrets with others that don't surf there. It's an interesting relationship we have with it. When it is going off we are deeply in love and when it is blown out and flat we get upset like it has done something to wrong us. All and all we go out day after day and share the magic of what we have found to be an important part of our lives, surfing. 

So, if  you have a spot that you call your own, show it some love and say a few thank you's while you are enjoying its surf, good or bad.  Unlike most things in life it is always there for you when you need it most. Showing it some gratitude goes a long way.

Lucas Foster - Longboard Grom

Lucas paying respect to his dad.

While digging through some photo archives Erik Baldwin  gave me a while back, I set these aside as I liked them and the person they are of.  The longboard loving grom in the shots is Lucas Foster, son of Grandview local Aaron Foster. I've featured Lucas for his wax art before but never his surfing. I've known Lucas for all his life and it is a great pleasure to see him in the water with so much stoke. He and his brother Logan are doing great out there and it is so much fun to watch! Lucas is also one of those young guys who takes his logging seriously. Looking to Tudor for influence, he likes his longboards old school and single. You will see a lot of Lucas at Beacons and Cardiff  this summer.

Cottonwood Creek Environmental Film Festival

Friends and EED volunteers Anne and Kurk just as excited to be there.

This evening was the Cottonwood Creek Environmental Film Festival.  It featured shorts from various filmmakers on environmental education. Surfrider was there and showed some really great films to educate people on issues such as plastic bag bans and the impact of cigarette butts on the beach. It also had a really great short of the movement to clean up the Tijuana River Mouth Basin. It was really an eye opener at how much trash is in that region. There was even a cool short of our own Rodney McCoubrey.

My favorite part of the night though was the showing of Sprout. It's no secret that Sprout is my most watched film. I've seen it at least 20 times but had never watched it on the big screen until tonight.  It was really amazing to be there with that energy and watch a move that I love. It was like meeting up with an old friend and spending time catching up again.

At the end they gave out some really cool prizes. Lots of signed Jack Johnson CD's and DVD's and some cool tees and posters.

All and all it was a great time. Good people with good films, how could you go wrong? I'll see everyone at Cottonwood Creek tomorrow.

Cardiff Soul

I got an email from David yesterday who had the opportunity to shoot Cardiff with some serious talent out. Here is his message and a few of the shots.  More to come later... Enjoy.

Some great surfing going on at Cardiff Reef yesterday morning. The  

first two shots are of an unknown surfer who caught my eye with his  

epic board even before he hit the water. The next thing i know the guy  

is hangin' 10 right in front of me. The last two shot are of Chris Del Moro  

who is blessed with that ability that only a few people have... the  

guy surfs with so much style that you would have to be the worlds  

worst photographer to not be able to get a good shot of him. I kid you  

not, he has style even when he's going straight.   David

Eli on VIMBY

VIMBY - Eli Mirandon

Here is great little video on Eli that Chris Miller turned me on to. A lot of great surfing. All fish which is of course my favorite. I really appreciate how he is pushing things and builds/rides his own boards. Not only that but he is going way outside the box and isn't afraid to try anything new. Keep it up Eli!  Enjoy.

Paul's New Kies 7'2" Geezer Whale

My friend Paul sent me this email.  I had to laugh at his photo with the broom. He fell in love with this board and has been catching A LOT of waves. Good for you Paul!

Ed, This is my new geezer board.Years ago I figured if I could not ride a high performance board I would hang up my wet suit. I have since determined that not being in the water is not an option. Old age, compounded by 25yrs. of baseball have taken a toll to the point where I could not affectively get to my feet on the boards of my preference.Hence the geezer-whale. It's 7'2" and allows me the extra 2 seconds needed to hobble to my feet. I suppose every surfer that lives long enough will endure a certain amount of frustration that phisical limitations bring,however I'm stoked with this move.This board rides well, however the turns require alot more muscle....................pauly t. a.s.l. por vida 

Encinitas Environmental Day Sat. June 7th 10-4 at Cottonwood Creek Park

Cool poster design by Jaime Di Dio Aoyama! 

Don't forget to go to the Encinitas Environmental Day this Saturday June 7th 10am to 4pm at Cottonwood Creek Park. 

The event will feature a 20 mile urban bike ride (starting at E St. Cafe at 9am and ending at Cottonwood Creek Park, lots of local green vendors, artists (including Rodrigo McCoubrey), educators and a kids' art activity using various plastics and trash to make picture frames.  

These events are fun. The first year I went they had a really cool demonstration of a leg powered bicycle generator to make smoothies and a sun over. I also scored some cool stuff from local environmentally friendly companies.

This event is dedicated to the memory of Bob Nanniga who started the fair. A great legacy to leave behind.

Special thanks to all the volunteers who helped out.  John Gjata, Rodney McCoubrey, "Miss Anne" Fagergren, and Jaime Di Dio Aoyama are few of the 30 that spent there spare time getting this organized. 

For more info check out the event website: www.eeday.org

Black Line Fin by Local Artist Steve Burrows

I love how the fins keep coming in. Here is a cool Fin sent in by local artist and surfer Steve Burrows. He and his wife Rose live over by Stone Steps and surf there a lot. I really like his line art style. He does a lot of VW art as well which hits a soft spot.  Growing up I had a 69 bug that was my wheels to the beach. Oh the memories of driving home after a winter session with no heater! Good times.  Checkout his site here. Enjoy.

Locals Score In Namotu

There is a group of Grandview surfers that takes a trip to Namotu each year.  You will know them by the perma smiles they have from about May to December.  This trip they came back with photos.  Grandview local and good friend, Bob Houldin, was nice enough to share. I've never been but have had the pleasure of hearing all the stories. Someday I'll book my own trip and live it myself. Until then, I'll have to live through these. Enjoy.

Bob Holden enjoying a left in paradise. Bob moved to Leucadia in the 70's and has been a staple in the water ever since. You will know you're surfing with Bob when you hear a hoot from the outside and it continues to the sand. He gets the happiest local award for sure. Bob is always in a good mood and a pleasure to be in the water with. 

Surfers Journal's newest employee, Ross Garrett, was on the trip.

Ross with a little finless duck dive.

Nice spit. Story goes it was triple over head most days.

Ross setting up for the bottom turn.

A classic shot of the stoke you just can't help but feel for your friends when they get a great ride.

Another Grandview local Pete McRoskey enjoying himself. I surf with Pete all the time. He and Bob have been in Leucadia forever and have the place wired.  They are also some of the nicest guys in the line up. 

What the rest of us missed.

Don't Forget--Fish For Thought Saturday at Del Mar Power House

FISH for THOUGHT 

MILE of ART on the beach in Del Mar

TEACHES KIDS, COMMUNITY, ABOUT RECYCLING

Featuring Rodney McCoubrey

If you can go down and support Rodney! It's his first huge event like this giving back to the community. 

We're proud of you Rodney!

 

Elementary students' artwork display from recycled materials (trash to treasure)

with local artist Rodney 'Rodrigo' McCoubrey this Saturday, May 30th. on the beach in Del Mar

 

 

 A mile of marine-themed artwork—colorful concoctions  of scrap wood, old toothbrushes, aluminum soda tabs, popped balloons and the like, mounted on recycled sticks--winding "Christo style" along the scenic Del Mar coastline.  Trash to treasure - a message of HOPE and RECYCLING.

 

Mini-masterpieces, the kids call Fish Sticks, will be proudly created and displayed to tell the tale ending ocean pollution.

 

This simple recycling/art project by 400 Del Mar Elementary School children has taken on a life of its own in their hearts and minds, while heightening ocean pollution awareness.  Fish For Thought will culminate this  Saturday, May 30th, from Power House Park North to Dog Beach in Del Mar in an all-community beach cleanup and coastline art installation along Del Mar beach. 

 

 Local recycled-trash artist Rodrigo (aka Rodney McCoubrey) will help them create their own one-of-a-kind recycled wooden fish, embellished with recycled trash collected from the beach and home. www.FishForThought.org

 

Filmmakers will be onhand to document this grass roots effort and are fundraising to complete an educational documentary.  Del Mar hopes to highlight this pilot program as an example of what a community can do to reverse the negative impact trash makes on our beaches and ocean - a small community with a big message.

 

Local Chief Lifeguard Pat Vergne says,  “Our community is using art to raise awareness about trash and the negative effect it has on the health of our marine life and our coastal community.  We are thrilled to be supporting the Fish Sticks exhibition and the 5th annual Keep Del Mar Clean community beach clean up as we kick off our city’s new recycling program.”

 

Additional partners in the project include the City of Del Mar and environmental group “Keep Del Mar Clean.” 

 

Beach clean up will take place from 9:00 a.m. until 12:00 p.m. at Power House Park in Del Mar.

 

Fish Sticks will be on display 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. , Power House Park north to Dog Beach in Del Mar, this Saturday May 30th.

 

  www.FishForThought.org

Blog Shopping My Dream Quiver

With everyone getting new boards I decided to go blog shopping and pick out a few for my Dream Quiver. Even if for a few moments I can dream of having these boards in my possession. Who knows, someday I will? (Manny, Dennis, you want to hook a blogger up?) After looking around for a while I found a couple that caught my eye. Since this is only a dream I'm going to have a big quiver so there are plenty more blogs to look through. For now these will be the first two I add to my collection.

Mandala 5'10" Wingless Quad Fish

(originally posted as a 5'11" but I'm stuck on my magic number.) What can I say. You have to love Manny's work. His boards are like eye candy. I believe this is the the same board Eli rode at Black's that day David got shots.  Oh my. If I get the board could I surf like that?

Murphy 9'-0" Competitor 2+1 

18" x 22 3/8" x 14" : 3" thick

If you are going to own a longboard it has to be a Murphy in my book. Especially in Leucadia.  Not many people know this but the Iron Cross and the Bear surfboards at the Longboard Grotto were all shaped by Dennis. I don't own a longboard right now and need one in my quiver so this is a must have. Chris Miller has one that I've ridden and it is a really fun board.  It's light, it can turn and it is super fun to (attempt) to nose ride. I'm not known to venture far away from my fish but when I do, this is the board for me. It's almost not fair though, I get entirely to may waves. I almost feel bad while in the line up. ALMOST.

Chris' TLP 7'8" Murphy

Hanna running for her life.

Chris surprised me with a TLP laminate. 

Chris showing some love for his new ride.

Chris stopped by with a new 7'8" Murphy. Dennis' 15,132 shape. He brought a board just like this to Fiji and ended up  leaving it behind as payment for boat access.  It was a hard call but a mans got to do what a mans got to do. The board worked liked magic there so he had to replace it.  He was like a little kid. Thoughts of some secret spots in Fiji kept filling his mind.

Here's to the Groms

The best part of being 7 years old and 4 feet tall is that you have a really good chance that it will be head high or bigger. Here's a shot of a local grom getting a nice little left at Swami's.  

When looking at this photo it brought me back to when I first started surfing. It was in 6th grade and I can remember my first green wall. After spending countless days riding white wash I finally had that Ah Ha moment of "this is what I want to do for the rest of my life." I think I made it to one knee but I can still see that green wall in my minds eye.  I think it was at Pipes. It was the most amazing and beautiful experience of my young life. 

It wasn't until later in life that I surfed half as good as the groms I now see.  But I guess the best part of surfing is the journey.  I'm sure it would be nice to pick up a board, paddle out for the first time, crack one off the top then stall into a nice barrel. But then again, think about all the lessons learned along the way that would have been lost.

Surfing is one of those things that tests our commitment and focus on what we want to achieve. It's one of those things that because it is hard, and because it takes years to become competent,  it keeps us challenged and entertained for the rest of our lives.  

Here is to the groms who are surfing better at 7 then my 18 year old self. May their journey be just as packed with the lessons and stoke it has brought me.

Photo by David Gray

My Man Logan Foster

 

Here is a nice, all be it blurry, sequence of 12 year old Logan Foster. Erik has been coaching him and he is really taking off.  The photos are from his dad Aaron. Any of you who know Aaron know that these shots are a miracle.  We have many stories of how David and I have taken amazing photos or video of Aaron and, although he means well, does not return the favor. (I have a video of nothing but ants and sand as he got the on off button reversed on a decent shoulder high day.) I proudly put this up as an acknowledgement of how far Aaron has come. 

I've known Logan since he was born. Our families were tied together and bonded through the love of Grandview.  We spent many swells sharing waves. Logan was my buddy and would come over to my house a lot with his brother Lucas. As they grew up Aaron and I would talk about how amazing it will be when they surf. 

After seeing these photos I flashed back to one day when Logan came over to my house to give me a "Presentation".  He had come well prepared for a 7 year old, complete with drawings and a pie chart. (Aaron was a sales rep and was famous for his pie charts.) When he came over he started to pitch me on how he wanted a skate park in his back yard. He told me that if I built one for him he would give me a percentage of his first million when he turned pro. Unfortunately Logan was barking up the wrong tree.  He had no idea my skills with a hammer were meager at best, so I congratulated him on a fine presentation and sent him on his way. Now, after seeing these photos... I should have done it.