For only the second time in my life I surfed Swamis yesterday. I have always avoided the spot due to over crowding. I'm known to stay as local as much as possible but some friends were meeting up there and I decided to give it a shot. I went down not to expect much but ended up having a great time. The energy there is really amazing. It reminded me of surfing Malibu a few years ago. There is something about these sacred spots that have a certain energy that is different than others.
The shot above was from 2005. I printed them out for my friends that Christmas for gifts. When I was at my friend Jason's house he had a copy on his wall. I had completely forgotten I had even taken this shot. I really like it. It shows the personality of Swamis on those huge swells, complete with huge sneaker sets and multiple people on a wave. Click on it to see it full size. Enjoy.
