Winter Solstice

Yesterday if you didn't know was Winter Solstice, the shortest day of the year. I've never thought much about the day in the past. I usually celebrate Summer Solstice, as I really enjoy the long days of summer.

Yesterday though it all changed. I was lucky enough to run into a good friend of mine at Beacons who was out for a walk. When I pulled up we started talking and then we both glanced out and saw some fun little waves come in. We looked at each other, both calculating in ours heads how long it had been since we surfed together and both agreed that it was good enough to call it a session.

I ran home to get my stuff and started to get sidetracked. My wife quickly reminded me that it was of course the shortest day of the year, if I wanted water time I'd better jump on it. When she said that I was almost angry at the universe. Shortest day I thought, I can't wait until I can surf until 8pm again. I brushed it off and road down to my spot. Out in the water was Bob, by himself, already enjoying a few rides. The surf was small but was surprisingly fun.

I paddled out and we started to enjoy these little rights that peeled like point breaks as they hit the inside sandbar. The two of us sat in the most amazing dusk sunlight as we took wave after wave by ourselves.

At the end of the session we walked back to our bikes and we both quietly acknowledged the turning point of what will become summer. The shortest day of the year is over and we are now slowly but surely working our way back to the longest.

Above is a shot that was sent to me by my friend Jason surfing Saturday morning. He had made the same discovery only about 8 hours earlier. He reported clean little rights with no one out.

Photo by Rob

Birth Photos

I was digging through my archives and found these pictures of my favorite board, Binki. A 5'10" Leucadia shop board shaped by Steve Clark.  I got it in 2004. September 9th, 2004 to be exact.  I remember the day.  I had been looking for a Fish for months.  Jeff the owner let me know that he had some boards coming and told me to come in to check them out. I went down to take a look and there she was.  Jeff, who is a great guy, gave me a deal on the board and threw in the leash. I was stoked. 

About 9 months later I was riding my bike home from surfing and as I rounded my corner my foot slipped off the peddle and I flew into the air and onto my board.  Luckily I was Ok. I bit shocked, but fine.  My board, was dinged. I few days passd and I told Jeff what happened. He told me to drop off the board and he'd give it to his glasser.

Some time passed and Jeff gave me a ring. The board was fixed.  I went in to pick it up and he handed it over. I asked how much and he just shook his head.  Just take it he said.  I did with extreme gratitude.  Four years later it is still my favorite board. I've surf countless hours on it here and even was luckey enough to surf Honolua Bay on it.

Every time I ride this board I am greatful of what I have and for the crew at Leucadia.  Without these guys in your neighborhood you don't get all the things you need for your daily glide. 

Here is my thank you to Jeff and Mary who have supported their customers and friends.  I know that with the economy in a squeeze times are tough for the surf shops. If you have a local shop, do yourself a favor and them, support them. You'll be thankful in the long run and you will have friends for life.

Rescued

About 4 years ago my neighbor passed away suddenly. I didn't know him really at all since I had just moved in. I just remember him from the neighborhood.  He was one of the locals.  When they cleaned out his house they put this board out in the trash.  It is a circa 1970 7'6" McCoy single fin pintail. I stopped in shock.  It was beat up but it was still salvageable.  My dream is to have it fixed up and take it out.  For this guy to have kept this board all these years means he loved it. By the wear and tear on this board you could tell it was surfed a lot.  Now it sits but someday it will be surfed again.

In Loving Memory

Here is a picture I took of a tree that I could see from my backyard.  I loved it. Looking west at dusk I would stare at it and watch the birds hang out.  The other day it was cut down.  I was in shock.  Here is to you my friend.  You will be missed.

Photo Ed Lewis

Kookamongas

Here is another email I received from Mary Fleener. A bit of Leucadia History. Notice the Nezzy board.

Paul worked with this guy named Joe Locke who was an awesome surfer and when we took him to Avos, he was hooked, so we went there almost everyday after work. I’d just started a comic story about little tiki type men and hadn’t figured out a title yet. One day, when all three of us were out there, it was pretty crowded, so Paul sez: ”Let’s swim away from all these Kookamongas”. Presto, there was the title I would use for my new book! When I finally finished it, in 1997, it was a 32 page wordless comic that Joe enjoyed “reading “ with his two kids, and he liked the art so much, he drew the figures from the comic on his board. This pix was taken in 1999. Sadly, Joe is no longer with us. Aloha, Joe.

-Mary

Avo Street Painting

Here is an email I received from Mary Fleener, Avo Street local and renowned cartoonist/artist/musician.

Hi Ed- thought you'd like this....in the 90s', during the comic con, my friends Kevin and Kathi Altierie used to stay here for a day of surfing and dinner downtown before they had to go back to LA. Both worked in the animation business and Kathi is a well known background painter who has worked for Disney and Dreamworks. She got into plein air oil painting, so one day she took her kit down to Avos and this is the result. This year was 1994. Nice, eh? It's also only 6 by 8 inches!

-Mary

Friends and Neighbors

This is how it all begins. 

You get curious about what your neighbor's yard looks like, so you take a peak. You meet your neighbor and get to know them.  You hang out in your front yard. You talk surf but not much more then that. Then you start running into each other in the water. One thing leads to another and you are on the same surf schedule. Before you know it, you are surfing hundreds of hours together and take surf trips.  

The years pass and you start families. Your families are bound together by beach days and the love for the ocean. You look back at the years that have gone by and you see those amazing waves and the fun you had with your friends and neighbors. You smile.  Life is good in Leucadia.

Photo by Ed Lewis