Thanksgiving Swell 2009

Support Calypso!

As you most likely know Calypso had a fire and will be shut down for months while being repaired. My friend Gills, the owner, is having a benefit show monday night to support his staff. The place is one big family and after the fire he has committed to keep the staff afloat so they can come back to their jobs. If you are free Monday night, go to the Belly Up to support Gills and his crew. It will be a great night of music and for a great cause.

New Shatto and Son's Calendar

It's that time of year again. Go in and get your calendar at Shatto and Son's. It's a Leucadia tradition! If you buy a tee you get one for free.

Shatto and Son's has been in Leucadia for 35 years. Ryan is running things now and is super easy to work with if you need some custom tees. I got our TLP tees made there and they came out great. Support your friends and neighbors. It just feels good.

Thank YOU!

Thank you to all who look at the site! Those who admit it and those who don't all have a spacial place in my heart. You are the reason I spend my free time thinking of ways to keep you inspired. The site has been around for just about a year now and it has been so much fun. I hope you have half as much fun with it as I do.

In the spirit of Thanksgiving here are a few things I'm grateful for.

Alia
Steve Lis
Great Family, Friends & Neighbors
People who share wax
Glassy days with two people out
Friendly people in the water
Buddies who witness and later vouch for your tube ride
Emails with surf photos attached
North West Swells
Rights from Cactus to Roundhouse
Fall days when the kids are back in school, the water is warm and the surf is good
Burritos
The $6.95 Special
Beacons sunsets
Daddy daycare days at the beach
The GV stairs
Biking to the Beach

I can go on and on. Feel free to add your own in the comments.

Happy THANKSGIVING!!!!!

After The Storm

In October 2004 my dad came up to see me and we went out to shoot some photos together. Just a little hang time with my dad. This was before I had my camera and he was teaching me a few things about shooting. It was a beautiful day. We had a big storm the day before and the day was amazing. It was bright blue with big fluffy clouds and there was some surf to be had.

My dad is one of those guys who always amazes me. As a dad he is the best. Always there, listening, telling jokes and teaching me things. He is also someone who has an amazing ability to capture beauty in whatever he shoots. I worked with him on a little project where we took his photography and made a DVD out of it set to music. I remember working on that and being mesmerized by his images. A joy to do and I'll never forget it.

The images above are from that day. He let me shoot with his camera and gave me some pointers. Every time I see them they make me remember that day and him. I hope you enjoy them as well.

Miss Anne's Portrait of Rodney

My friend Anne is an amazing person. She is funny, smart and creative. She has also never officially called herself an artist.  Well, after submitting her fin for our Fin Art project (see Anne's entry here ) that all changed. Miss Anne got "discovered" and invited to be a part of the professional art show Artists by Artist  being shown at the Encinitas Library. Anne was assigned Rodney to create a portrait of in her own unique and fun way.

Anne was blown away by the invitation and quickly set out to finish her piece. (Just kidding it's an inside joke.) After months of thought, and more thought Anne finally unveiled her piece, which will be hung for all to see on Dec 1st.

Her mind and work continue to blow me away. Using found objects she constructs these amazing works that keep your eye moving as it explores every nook and cranny of the canvas. Her sense of humor is played out in her work and it is just plain fun to look at. It makes me smile every time I see it.

Great work, Anne, and can't wait to see it in person at the show!

December 1, 2009 to  January 4, 2010, at the Community Room in the Encinitas Library.

THE RECEPTION:
December 13, 2009
1pm-4pm
the event is free and the public is invited

Finally Got A Maggie

This weekend was the Encinitas Street Fair. At the fair Maggie was there selling her prints. I finally got a chance to check them out and bought one of my favorite shots. It is of Rob's head (I think) and the nose of the ponga that they took to get out to the line up. I loved it because it makes me day dream about those days when you are out laying on your board with a friend and you get that view of the waterline that you only get while in the water. Oh man I  love it. I'm keeping it in my office so I can stare at it. Great work Maggie!

4th Annual Pottery Blowout Sale at The Wheel

My friend Mike Totah over at The Wheel Stoneware in Leucadia is having his yearly sale. He does some of the most amazing custom plates for many of the most high end resorts and restaurants in the country. He is a wholesale only business but once a year he opens his doors to the public.

Here's the details...

Saturday the 21st from 10am to 4pm

835 ‘C’ N. Vulcan Ave

Encinitas, CA 92024

Restaurant Grade 1st’s 2nd’s

& Heavily Discounted Over Runs

Pre-made Dinnerware sets 25% off

Cash only please

www.thewheelstoneware.com 

It Was a Swell Day

Enjoy.

Cardiff Pano

In 2005 I was on my way home when it started to rain. I was coming back from down south and decided to take Manchester to get to 101 as the freeway was packed and the sunset was already looking really beautiful. As I came up the hill to overlook Cardiff Reef I saw this view. I was stunned and immediately pulled over. I sat and watched with everyone else the most beautiful display of nature. The sky was glowing and the rain was pouring over the ocean. As I looked south to north the sky changed colors. I didn't have a panoramic camera so I took a bunch of shots and stitched them together. The final is 27 inches long. Click on the top photo to see it all together. Enjoy.

A Few From David

I love to see my in-box light up with emails from David. Every now and then I get a random email with photos and a cryptic message.  This one just said "swell comin'". No hi how are you. Just to the point. Every time he gets a swell alert I know his mind is twitching and can't wait to go shoot. He'll be digging through old photos to analyze his angle until it comes. Then he'll be down all day getting the best shots he can. He loves it. I'm grateful he does because I love to see the shots he gets. Until new ones arrive. Enjoy these.

Art Show - Unzipped - Thursday Night 6-9 PM

Stop by tomorrow evening for a little art and fun with 14 of our local artists. Meet them, see their work and buy something special for your collection. We all know that our local talent is worth the wall space. See you there!

Abstract Machado Portrait By Rodney McCoubrey

Our very own Mary Fleener has organized a fun show called Artists by Artists that features 27 portraits of local artists, done by local artists.  Above is an abstract portrait of Rob Machado done by my friend and recycled art guru Rodney McCoubrey.

Check out the shows blog for other portraits. They are great. mfleener.wordpress.com

The Details...

“ARTISTS BY ARTISTS” GROUP SHOW
December 1, 2009 to  January 4, 2010, at the Community Room in the Encinitas Library.

THE RECEPTION:
December 13, 2009
1pm-4pm
the event is free and the public is invited

* THE AxA 27 *
Danny Salzhandler by D. Goth
Robert Nanninga by Vanessa Lemen
Alec McTurk by Ana Clark
Rodney McCoubrey by Anne Julian
Mary Fleener by Fred Caldwell
David J by Scott Saw
Jerry Waddle by Max Dolberg
Scrojo by Mary Fleener
Diane Stacey by Cheryl Tall
Jim and Linda Hornung by Faith Lindley
Brad Schneider by Scrojo
Rob Machado by Rodney McCoubrey
Paul Williams by Drew Snyder
Mike Totah by Diane Stacey
Jeremy Wright by Jean Krumbein
Vanessa Lemen by Brian Weisz
Ron Lemen by Dody Tucker
Kevin Anderson by Jim Hornung
Cindy Lee Berryhill by Ron Lemen
Manuelita Brown by Kevin Anderson
Julia Gray by Jack Quick
Sheri Fox by Roz Light
Jack Quick by Bryson Stein
Roz Light by Nancy Nelson
RAW by Scott Lynd
Dody Tucker by Taina Ringeride
Scott Saw by Mary Fleener

The Grain Is Done, Shot, Waxed and Surfed

(photo - Kipp)

The Grain board is done and it is unbelievably beautiful. I had it home for a few days before taking her down for the maiden voyage and all I could do was stare at her and take pictures. I moved her from spot to spot in my house like a new piece of art. I set her up against walls and played with lighting. It consumed me. It's art I can ride. Does it get any better then that?

Down at the beach the beauty of the board is even more stunning. The wood grain and the elements of our coastline come together in harmony.

(photo - Kipp)

From the start I envisioned bamboo keels on her but couldn't wait to ride her so I used my favorite fins from Binki. I have to admit I really like the red fins on the wood so they might stay.

Nose to tail I get inspired every time I look at her.

 I couldn't resist the shot. It made it look like it was floating. It gives you a good look a the rocker as well.

(photo - Kipp)

As you can imagine I couldn't wait to ride this board. I waited three days (Which, let's face it, was an eternity.) After shooting more shots I waxed her up on the beach and then ran to the water.

It was two Christmases ago when I got the kit and the dream to have my friends help build it, family and friends sign it, me glass it and get everyone I could to ride it, started. It was the maiden voyage and I was so overwhelmed with excitement and curiosity. Could I even ride this thing?

(photo - Kipp)

When I first started out with this project one of my first concerns about a wood board was how it was going to float.  I'd never ridden a wood board and didn't get how the dimensions would translate from foam to wood. To my joy the board floats me like a charm. Easy to paddle and duck dive as well.

(photo - Kipp)

My first take off was smooth. The weight of the board carried me down the line much quicker than my foam board. First wave and all I could think was HOLY $%#@ this thing works!

(photo - Kipp)

I'm no Erik Baldwin. He can jump on any board and kill it. It usually takes me a few sessions to warm up to a board. The sign of a good board for me is if I can figure it out in one session. I was really stoked how fast I got it. I was even able to get in a couple of cut backs. Here's me doing my best move. I call it the wounded pidgeon. Kids, don't try this at your break.

(photo - Kipp)

The other thing I found was that it was really stable in the pocket. On the inside there is that little hollow-ish section (let's face it, it doesn't really get hollow at my spot.). What really made me smile was that the weight of the board made it super stable so I was able to hold on through the whole section, get a head dip, and come out when I usually get swallowed up. (Chris, no comments!)

(photo - Kipp)

All and all the board was a blast. First session and I felt I could ride it day in and day out. It was fast, fun and did I mention how freaking beautiful it is?

This board was an amazing project. The way I went about it was unique and took the talents of many which made it even more special to ride it when it was done.

Thank you to all who participated but here are a few of the key players who I want to point out...

(photo - Dan)

THANK YOU, THANK YOU Cowboy Dan and Dennis Murphy for all your wood working talents and shaping skills.  I think this was the first Grain ever built in this team fashion and you guys were the corner stone to the team. This board is here because of you two.

THANK YOU Kipp and Dawn Denslow for allowing me to take over your garage for weeks as I learned my way through the glassing process. I made my fair share of mistakes and Kipp you were very kind in not laughing or scolding me while I did.

(photo - Kipp)

THANK YOU to David Gray who gave me encouragement and loaned me his mask! Without that I would have been brain dead.

THANK YOU to Chris Miller of Murphy Surfboards who kept on me about finishing the board. With all the phases this board went through and all the hands that touched it, it felt like at times it would never be completed. He was always there to harass me into hurrying up and keep me on target.

THANK YOU to Erik Baldwin who was Kipp's and my inspiration through the glassing process for getting things done in a timely manner. After seeing how quick he works we aspired to be as efficient as he. We would always joke that if Erik was there it would have been done by now.

THANK YOU THANK YOU to Brad and Mike at Grain. They showed up out of the blue to give some tips and stoke us out. When was the last time the owners of your favorite surf brand showed at your door?

Finally... THANK YOU to Alia's mom Kristen Enyedi who at the time was my wife and was amazing enough to give me the kit for Christmas. You get serious points for that!