Life is the ultimate dichotomy. Good / Bad, Right / Wrong, Up / Down. Depending on how you look at it, something is one thing to one person and another to, well, another. This board is the perfect example. Snapped from a rogue 15 foot set and the cause of bummed morning to a local who lost a great board. To me, well a gold-mine of fresh foam. All how you see it.
With a swell with so much juice there are most likely a 100 broken boards out there. Good news for shop owners, bad news for the owners of those boards but again, good news for me! Isn't life grand? If you come across one, keep it from the trash, take it home and contact us so we can pick it up. Your planet will thank you and so will I!
On another note this was another causality of the swell. Just after I got that broken board I went to shoot some shots and my foot caught the strap and it yanked it out of my hand crashing the camera to the ground and braking my lens OFF! Oh my, this time it was bad for me but who knows, is it good for someone else? Anyone want a lens to fix? Luckily my pops has a spare lens for me to use for my trip to Grain next week! More on that later...
