It Was a Swell Day

Enjoy.

Cardiff Pano

In 2005 I was on my way home when it started to rain. I was coming back from down south and decided to take Manchester to get to 101 as the freeway was packed and the sunset was already looking really beautiful. As I came up the hill to overlook Cardiff Reef I saw this view. I was stunned and immediately pulled over. I sat and watched with everyone else the most beautiful display of nature. The sky was glowing and the rain was pouring over the ocean. As I looked south to north the sky changed colors. I didn't have a panoramic camera so I took a bunch of shots and stitched them together. The final is 27 inches long. Click on the top photo to see it all together. Enjoy.

A Few From David

I love to see my in-box light up with emails from David. Every now and then I get a random email with photos and a cryptic message.  This one just said "swell comin'". No hi how are you. Just to the point. Every time he gets a swell alert I know his mind is twitching and can't wait to go shoot. He'll be digging through old photos to analyze his angle until it comes. Then he'll be down all day getting the best shots he can. He loves it. I'm grateful he does because I love to see the shots he gets. Until new ones arrive. Enjoy these.

Art Show - Unzipped - Thursday Night 6-9 PM

Stop by tomorrow evening for a little art and fun with 14 of our local artists. Meet them, see their work and buy something special for your collection. We all know that our local talent is worth the wall space. See you there!

Abstract Machado Portrait By Rodney McCoubrey

Our very own Mary Fleener has organized a fun show called Artists by Artists that features 27 portraits of local artists, done by local artists.  Above is an abstract portrait of Rob Machado done by my friend and recycled art guru Rodney McCoubrey.

Check out the shows blog for other portraits. They are great. mfleener.wordpress.com

The Details...

“ARTISTS BY ARTISTS” GROUP SHOW
December 1, 2009 to  January 4, 2010, at the Community Room in the Encinitas Library.

THE RECEPTION:
December 13, 2009
1pm-4pm
the event is free and the public is invited

* THE AxA 27 *
Danny Salzhandler by D. Goth
Robert Nanninga by Vanessa Lemen
Alec McTurk by Ana Clark
Rodney McCoubrey by Anne Julian
Mary Fleener by Fred Caldwell
David J by Scott Saw
Jerry Waddle by Max Dolberg
Scrojo by Mary Fleener
Diane Stacey by Cheryl Tall
Jim and Linda Hornung by Faith Lindley
Brad Schneider by Scrojo
Rob Machado by Rodney McCoubrey
Paul Williams by Drew Snyder
Mike Totah by Diane Stacey
Jeremy Wright by Jean Krumbein
Vanessa Lemen by Brian Weisz
Ron Lemen by Dody Tucker
Kevin Anderson by Jim Hornung
Cindy Lee Berryhill by Ron Lemen
Manuelita Brown by Kevin Anderson
Julia Gray by Jack Quick
Sheri Fox by Roz Light
Jack Quick by Bryson Stein
Roz Light by Nancy Nelson
RAW by Scott Lynd
Dody Tucker by Taina Ringeride
Scott Saw by Mary Fleener

The Grain Is Done, Shot, Waxed and Surfed

(photo - Kipp)

The Grain board is done and it is unbelievably beautiful. I had it home for a few days before taking her down for the maiden voyage and all I could do was stare at her and take pictures. I moved her from spot to spot in my house like a new piece of art. I set her up against walls and played with lighting. It consumed me. It's art I can ride. Does it get any better then that?

Down at the beach the beauty of the board is even more stunning. The wood grain and the elements of our coastline come together in harmony.

(photo - Kipp)

From the start I envisioned bamboo keels on her but couldn't wait to ride her so I used my favorite fins from Binki. I have to admit I really like the red fins on the wood so they might stay.

Nose to tail I get inspired every time I look at her.

 I couldn't resist the shot. It made it look like it was floating. It gives you a good look a the rocker as well.

(photo - Kipp)

As you can imagine I couldn't wait to ride this board. I waited three days (Which, let's face it, was an eternity.) After shooting more shots I waxed her up on the beach and then ran to the water.

It was two Christmases ago when I got the kit and the dream to have my friends help build it, family and friends sign it, me glass it and get everyone I could to ride it, started. It was the maiden voyage and I was so overwhelmed with excitement and curiosity. Could I even ride this thing?

(photo - Kipp)

When I first started out with this project one of my first concerns about a wood board was how it was going to float.  I'd never ridden a wood board and didn't get how the dimensions would translate from foam to wood. To my joy the board floats me like a charm. Easy to paddle and duck dive as well.

(photo - Kipp)

My first take off was smooth. The weight of the board carried me down the line much quicker than my foam board. First wave and all I could think was HOLY $%#@ this thing works!

(photo - Kipp)

I'm no Erik Baldwin. He can jump on any board and kill it. It usually takes me a few sessions to warm up to a board. The sign of a good board for me is if I can figure it out in one session. I was really stoked how fast I got it. I was even able to get in a couple of cut backs. Here's me doing my best move. I call it the wounded pidgeon. Kids, don't try this at your break.

(photo - Kipp)

The other thing I found was that it was really stable in the pocket. On the inside there is that little hollow-ish section (let's face it, it doesn't really get hollow at my spot.). What really made me smile was that the weight of the board made it super stable so I was able to hold on through the whole section, get a head dip, and come out when I usually get swallowed up. (Chris, no comments!)

(photo - Kipp)

All and all the board was a blast. First session and I felt I could ride it day in and day out. It was fast, fun and did I mention how freaking beautiful it is?

This board was an amazing project. The way I went about it was unique and took the talents of many which made it even more special to ride it when it was done.

Thank you to all who participated but here are a few of the key players who I want to point out...

(photo - Dan)

THANK YOU, THANK YOU Cowboy Dan and Dennis Murphy for all your wood working talents and shaping skills.  I think this was the first Grain ever built in this team fashion and you guys were the corner stone to the team. This board is here because of you two.

THANK YOU Kipp and Dawn Denslow for allowing me to take over your garage for weeks as I learned my way through the glassing process. I made my fair share of mistakes and Kipp you were very kind in not laughing or scolding me while I did.

(photo - Kipp)

THANK YOU to David Gray who gave me encouragement and loaned me his mask! Without that I would have been brain dead.

THANK YOU to Chris Miller of Murphy Surfboards who kept on me about finishing the board. With all the phases this board went through and all the hands that touched it, it felt like at times it would never be completed. He was always there to harass me into hurrying up and keep me on target.

THANK YOU to Erik Baldwin who was Kipp's and my inspiration through the glassing process for getting things done in a timely manner. After seeing how quick he works we aspired to be as efficient as he. We would always joke that if Erik was there it would have been done by now.

THANK YOU THANK YOU to Brad and Mike at Grain. They showed up out of the blue to give some tips and stoke us out. When was the last time the owners of your favorite surf brand showed at your door?

Finally... THANK YOU to Alia's mom Kristen Enyedi who at the time was my wife and was amazing enough to give me the kit for Christmas. You get serious points for that!

Grain Update - Leash Loop

I knew right away that I wanted to do a leash loop on this board. With that said I have never seen one done and had actually only seen one on a board in person once. Luckily, Murphy clued us in as to what to do. But mostly we winged it. It came out really cool though.

Step one. Not pictured. Go to the drive through at Burger King and order something that comes with a straw. Places that sell milk shakes have the best straws as they are huge. Cut the straw to fit the width of the section you are spanning. I cut the sides at an angle which worked well for me.

Sand with a little 100 grit.

Take your fin rope and put in through the straw and cut to size. You need enough out the sides so that you can fan it out like a bow tie and attach to the deck.

The trick to this is that the straw is there to hold shape and resin. To get this to work you saturate the fin rope by holding on to one side and sliding the rope to the one end of the straw, wetting with sanding resin and then sliding back through the straw. Repeat until the rope is saturated. Next, fan the rope strands out like a bow tie and press to the deck.

After the resin is set, use a grinder, sandpaper and a razor blade to remove the straw and grind down any excess.  We ended up with a bubble so we added a bit more resin and then grinded.

Sand...

Sand some more...

Don't forget to get under the bridge...

Wala. Leash loop!

All and all, easy and fun. Try it on your next board.

Yet again Kipp was a huge help and my resin guru. Many thanks for helping AGAIN!

For My Good Friend Kenny Mac

My friend and long time Grandview local Ken MacDonald has been battling cancer for the last year and a half. He has had his ups and downs but is still fighting. I got to hang out with him last week and it was really good to see Ken up and around. After my visit he sent this shot to me from a few years back when he was in the water every day and was stronger then ever. It made me remember my days of hanging out with him in the water and all the good rights he got. Here's to those days my friend. I'll never forget them.

If you know Ken or not, make sure before you go to bed that you think about him and his health and wish him well to beat this thing. I hope to get him back in the water soon.

Reminder - Grain Raffle Tonight - Nice little video on it.

Tonight is the raffle of the Grain board. The guys at Grain put this little video together with Jeff Martin the builder talking about why he built the board. Check it out.

Logan Foster

If you follow the Foster Surf Adventures blog you'll know that Logan made it to his first NSSA final. I'm so stoked for him and his brother Lucas who I've known since birth and are turing out to be great surfers. They have both blown me away at there abilities. Way to go Logan!!!

See the full post here .

Share Day - A Few Shots From Dean's Latest Trip

Dean  told me he was off on another surf trip and so I asked for him to bring me back a little something to share. He delivered with some great little shots of his friends, Pat Mulhern (reg foot) and Golden (goofy foot). He wouldn't tell where they went. The water is so clear it looks like an Indo trip but the full suits aren't supporting that. Looks amazing where ever it is.

Secret Stash of Keels

I went rummaging through my photos this morning to find this shoot of a secret stash of what I think were Pavels. I went with Erik one day to see Roy Sanchez and we stumbled on this room. Both walls were like this. It was quite the sight. I think I stood there for a few minutes speechless. Seeing J.P.'s post of boards at Moonlight jared my memory of this shot. I hope you feel the same sense of excitement I felt that day. I really wanted to take one home with me.

Beer Wave - Studio Aiuto's Latest Project

Click on image to enlarge

Jamie and Tak over at Studio Aiuto sent me this project they have ben working on called Beer Wave. An 11 month experiment to accumulate beer bottles attempting to discover unknown beauty in what the majority deem as garbage. [over 110 lbs of "garbage" was recycled in the making of this project] The center image image is what they made. An amazing work of art out of bottles. Very cool guys!