Saturday, February 7, 2009

After The Storm





Today was amazing.  First was the rain. It poured like crazy for most of the day and then it glassed off and the surf picked up. When you are lucky enough to experience these days you really feel grateful for living where we do. Enjoy.

Photos by David Gray

What I'm Watching - Ultimate Sessions


This morning I woke up early, heard the rain and decided that it was a good morning for a surf film. 

The one I picked out this morning was Ultimate Sessions.  I originally got the film as a present for my father in law but borrowed it back to watch one day and it has sat on my shelf ever since. (Sorry Klaus! Anytime you want it please let me know.)

The film is great since it takes all the best sections from classics like September Session, Free Ride, Cosmic Children, Fluid Drive,  Morning Of The Earth, Ocean Fever, Amazing Surf Stories and my favorite section Searching For Curren. That alone was why I wanted to watch it.  I had never seen the whole Searching For Curren film and that section when Tom Curren rides the 5 foot something board in huge surf is a cult classic.  It has been talked about for decades and really was the beginning of what is going on with the fish and micro boards of today. 

The film itself is entertaining. It has good music, surf history and documentary style interviews (Which I am a big fan of).  You get a sort of cheat sheet to surf film history and you get a lot of good surf for your money. If you don't have the budget to buy all films you do get the best of each in one package.

The film was produced by Ira Opper, a legend in his own right and the godfather of surf content brought to you on your TV.  

For those of you out there who surfed in the late 80's early 90's you will remember who Ira is from what he provided for you, prime time stoke. Now that we have Fuel TV and 24/7 action spots programming it is hard to imagine that there was a time when you had to scour the TV Guide to find the time spot that Surfer Magazine the TV show was on. In the days of old, you had to be in front of your TV to watch in real time (yes kids there was no DVR in those days) as the magic of watching surfing on your TV for free came to life. Any of you know from that era that to have surfing on network TV was huge. 

In 1986 I used to be a Solana Beach grom.  I'm sure if you surfed Pill Box or hung out at Mitch's Surf Shop you would have seen me and my friends walking around town in our full suits pulled down and our booties still on. (Yes, we were kooks but as stoked as anyone.) The parents of my best friend in Jr. High owned the Hide Away Cafe.  Both of us lived in Mira Mesa and realized quickly that if we got up at 5:30 am and caught a ride with his parents we could surf all day and be back by 3 to nap. Our summers consisted of nonstop days of free breakfast (ahhh Cinnamon Rolls!), surfing (North Reef), free lunch (Chopper Burger!) and surfing (More North Reef). It was quite possibly the best childhood a surf rat could have.

At the ripe old age of 14 my friend and I became friends with Ira.  He was a local at the restaurant and since he was the producer of the Surfer Mag TV show he was our new found idol. He let us hang around and hold up cue cards for Corky Caroll as he did his thing for the show. That was huge at 14. Those memories will always stick with me.

Now 22 years later Ira is still stoking us out. Like he did in the past he has brought us our next surfing fix, the digital surf flix.  Armed with www.thesurfnetwork.com and an expanding library of films he has given us the opportunity to search, preview and download surf films of past and present on a whim. It is the iTunes library of everything surf.  If you haven't checked out the site you should. I think it has been out for a year now and I have been getting all my videos from there. It is priced well and most of all I can download a video in the middle of the night. You gotta love technology.

Back to Basics


Now that we are mid winter I am starting to miss the Leucadia days of summer. The cold water has started to take it's toll.  Here is a shot of Kirk that brought me right back. It gives me that feeling of south summer swell and warm water afternoons.  How nice would it be to be back in trunks.

By Photo by David Gray
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