Rescued

About 4 years ago my neighbor passed away suddenly. I didn't know him really at all since I had just moved in. I just remember him from the neighborhood.  He was one of the locals.  When they cleaned out his house they put this board out in the trash.  It is a circa 1970 7'6" McCoy single fin pintail. I stopped in shock.  It was beat up but it was still salvageable.  My dream is to have it fixed up and take it out.  For this guy to have kept this board all these years means he loved it. By the wear and tear on this board you could tell it was surfed a lot.  Now it sits but someday it will be surfed again.

North Leucadia Sunset

The other night I went over to Ponto to help Anne and Kirk out to shoot their Christmas photo. I walked up to the beach and the beauty of this image struck me.  I raised my camera on autopilot and fired off this first shot.  I took others but this first one was still the best.  Funny how instinct takes over. No matter how much time I spent trying to make it better the one I didn't even think about was the best. 

What I'm Watching - Believe

                                 

I'm a huge surf film buff and constantly looking for good films.  With the surf flat for a few more days you need some inspiration. There is only so much of this blog you can read before you need to see some video. Here is one of my new favorites that is keeping me going.  The title is Believe and it is filmed and edited in Australia.  Take a look at the trailer. The film is inspiring, you just feel good after watching it.  If you liked Glass Love you'll like this. If you've never seen Glass Love look that up as well.

For those of you who want it, I got mine as a download for $10 at www.thesurfnetwork.com