What I'm Watching - One California Day

I had seen for years on MTV's Cribs all the pop stars who had movie theaters in their mansions. The first thought that always came to mind was how cool it would be to watch surf films in them.  I never thought I'd have the opportunity to have my own personal movie theater until last week when my neighbor went on a trip and his wife was cool enough to loan me their digital video projector. 

After looking around my place I realized that if I pulled one of my paintings down I had a wall that was 12' x 12' and perfect for watching surf films. So far this week I have watched at least 6.

After going through my collection I started to branch out to my friends.  Erik loaned me One California Day which I hadn't seen in a few years.

The first time I saw One California Day it was at the La Palama on opening night.  It was quite the experience.  The film was good the first time but like leftover Leucaida Pizza, it got better with age. 

That is the one thing that is special about surf films. Ninety-nine percent of the movies I watch in pop culture I can watch once and get bord with them after that.  A good surf film is nothing like that.  You can watch them over and over and they become like an old friend who you don't see for a while but think about.  Once back together, you hit it off like you were never apart.

When given the oppertunity to watch the film again I was immediately transported to the opening night and the scene that inspired me the most.  Although they have a ton of great sequences, like Tudor at Big Rock, Joe and Tom Curren in Santa Barbera, Greg Noll in his work shop, and the Malloys in Baja, it was the Alex Knost and Tyler Warren sequences that by far stood out to me in the film.  I remember being blown away by Alex and Tyler and walking out of the theater completely inspired. It was the same this time around as well.

If you haven't seen this film yet it is one that you need to own in your collection.  The DVD is a great set as you get the extra footage of the Greg Noll segment and a lot more which is really cool. If you can't wait they got it in last week at www.thesurfnetwork.com. Enjoy.

A Few From Cardiff

David sent me these shots from Cardiff. They are both great. The guy in the first photo is classic. The second shot is cool because it gives me that late summer feel. Enjoy.

Black's Soul Surfing

When I got this shot I was blown away. The whole essence of the image drew me in. I love soul surfing anyway, then add a back lit glow, over head barrel, throw in a touch of offshore and you have a winner.

Photo by David Gray

North Side Iquique, Chile

The Rogers family moved to Leucaida in 1996, the same year I did. Leucadia was still a sleepy town and there where at least 2 empty lots on Jupiter at the time! Even though we lived very close it took about 3 years for me to actually start hanging out with them. Bob Rogers and his two son's Jesse and Randy all surfed, and so, in classic Leucadia style we all met first in the water and then discovered that we had a lot in common on land as well.  

Jesse, who was an avid surfer/traveler started to take notice on surf trips that there were a lot of Americans around the world who taught English for a living, and most importantly,  in countries that had great surf. After returning from a trip a light went off.  Armed with his BA in Communication and fluent in Spanish he decided to research countries with great surf that he could teach English as well.

The top of his list was Chile.  Three years ago Jesse packed his boards and headed for Chile. Alone in a foreign land he quickly made friends and started his 3 year long adventure, which ultimately lead him to his lovely Chilean wife Carolina.

Above are some of the rewards for spreading the English language abroad. While in Chile, Jesse had some amazing days. The experience was great and has since returned with Carolina to seek US employment. If anyone out there knows of a job you can email him here. 

You will be seeing more of Jesse and his travels.  For some reason he is one of those lucky guys who out of the blue makes friends on trips with guys with cameras. 

The photos above are taken by Sergio Peña, the owner of the Vertical Surf Shop. The best shop in the area according to Jesse.  It was complete with a Sushi bar and half pipe!

The walk.

The one thing that David does really well and that I appreciate about his work is his ability to tell the story.  He does it over and over and I think that is what stands him out from the rest. Yes, we all like to see that snap or tube. But for David it isn't just about the action, it is more about showing the emotion and the situation that makes it interesting for him.  He instinctively looks for and tells the bigger story.  To me this shot sums up his ability to do just that. It shows the emotion of what we go through as surfers. The loss of a loved board and the feeling of defeat as we walk back to our cars.

One of My Favorite Shots

Here is a shot David got posted on SurfLine. It is one of my favorites. It tells a great story.

Nice Sequence Of Erik

These shots were sent in by Erik. I thought they were really cool. I love the second shot. I like how the first wave's spray hides Erik as he pumps down the line. The photo's were taken by Lauren, one of the coolest girlfriends I know. Erik is lucky to have a girl who not only surfs but can shoot as well.

More Cardiff Green

Here are a two shots from David that he sent me. They are a two shot sequence of which the second image made it up on Surfline.  He has been shooting at Cardiff lately in the evening and getting these amazing shots of the water glowing from the back lit sunset. I know you all have been out at sunset and have been mesmerized by the glow of the green wall in front of you. These images bring me back to that feeling. Click on them to enlarge and look at the detail. Enjoy.

Another Road Trip to Cardiff

Here are two shots sent in by David Gray. He has been getting these unreal shots at dusk with the back lit waves. I love these. I hope you do as well. Below is what came with the email.

Well, finally after a month of absolutely NO surf whatsoever we get our first ray of hope in the form of 3' - 4' clean little waves! Nice! I think the curse Aaron brought down on us all due to his wetsuit covetousness issues has finally been lifted! (see lucasurfsblog for details of how he started all of this mess!) He even had to get a suit with a key holder... absolutely the straw that broke the camel's back for the entire last 30 days. All kidding around aside, the surf was pretty fun last night and I scored a few good shots. Enjoy. David

Cardiff Road Trip

Here is the story that came with these great shots...

Ed,

My son and his friend wanted to go surfing down at Cardiff the other day. The surf was super small and pretty much grom perfect! I thought hey, the sun is out and they will have a blast! Let's go! They paddled out and caught a few waves trying really hard to get tubed! I'm talking with more stoke and enthusiasm then I have seen in a long time. Anyway, I'm standing there trying to get a photo of them looking just a little bit cooler than a guy with a metal detector with my camera gear in my hand... :) Then I kept noticing a little bit of backlighting on the waves just north of me at the main peak. A little set rolled in and these guys did their magic and bang just like that I had a few good ones to take home. Pretty cool and now they are up on Surfline!

Dave

To Err Is Human. To Air Is Super Human

Here is a shot I really like.  It is one thing to punt airs but to do it on a fish with this much style is another. Here is Matt Dawson making it look easy.

Photo David Gray

Budding Surfer/Artist

Here is one of my favorite possessions. It's a drawing that was given to me for my birthday by this 6 year old surfer. He is a great kid. One of the most surf stoked groms you will ever meet. Look at the style he has. I love the fact that while the rest of us are so focused on the set waves, he is having the time of his life in a foot of water.

Photo by David Gray

Friends and Neighbors

This is how it all begins. 

You get curious about what your neighbor's yard looks like, so you take a peak. You meet your neighbor and get to know them.  You hang out in your front yard. You talk surf but not much more then that. Then you start running into each other in the water. One thing leads to another and you are on the same surf schedule. Before you know it, you are surfing hundreds of hours together and take surf trips.  

The years pass and you start families. Your families are bound together by beach days and the love for the ocean. You look back at the years that have gone by and you see those amazing waves and the fun you had with your friends and neighbors. You smile.  Life is good in Leucadia.

Photo by Ed Lewis

Good Times

Leucadia Commute

Here are few shots I took one winter day. I couldn't help but find interest in the less glamorized aspect of what we do. I love what we go through to get to what we want. Nothing motivates you more to run over cobble stone like head high surf.

Photos by Ed Lewis

Kirk Takes The High Road

Leucadia Foliage

Here is a picture of leaf I found in my backyard. The tree it came from is a a huge eucalyptus tree. The trunk is over 15 feet in diameter and is about 60+ years old.  The tree was here long before the houses around were built. It represents what Leucadia is all about.  I loved how it made a wave.

Photo by Ed Lewis

The One That Got Away

Here is one David Gray got the other day. Hard to image that there is no one on it let alone anywhere near it.  This is one I have as my desktop image.  Reminds me of how clean it can get in fall.

The Leucadia Navy

Here is a shot David Gray took of the Leucadia Navy side by side with the US Navy. While you are at work the Leucadia Navy is selflessly patrolling the waters to keep them safe for you when you get off. Here I am doing my part patrolling a little known right on the SS Binki. A 5'10" twin keel fish shaped by Steve Clark. As you can see the waters were safe from crowds.