It is funny, with all the surf images we see we get sort of jaded. I flip through magazines or online and just think to myself... NEXT.
It even took me a while to fully appreciate this shot. I looked at it, thought it was cool and then dismissed it as yet another nose ride.
Then I sat back, stared at it and realized... that guy has some serious talent. I can count on one closed fist the number of times I've ever been able to pull that off.
Then I stared at it a little more and was even more impressed by the fact that it's a great shot. I love how it has this mood to it and he just looks suspended in the moment of the wave and his thoughts. Again, I can count on a closed fist the number of times I shot a photo like that!
At this point I was in a moment of clarity and fully appreciated the value of the the talent in our water and on land. It was a humbling and refreshing experience.
Thanks to the unknown talent and of the shot of him sent in by David for making me stop and appreciate for a change.
