Here is one of Joe in the pocket of a clean little left. It wasn't big that day, as you can see, but I'd take it on a day like today. Photo by Davis Gray
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Clean Little Left
Here is one of Joe in the pocket of a clean little left. It wasn't big that day, as you can see, but I'd take it on a day like today. 
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I've surfed that wave for 25 years and it never gets old.I particularly enjoy the fact that others share the same thought without being too greedy in the water.When it's crowded we are all comforted by the knowledge that a perfect uncrowded day is just around the corner.The folks that understand this are my real family.ALOHA
ReplyDeleteThat is so true. Thank you for sharing that. If you have pictures please send them to us.
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