Locals Score In Namotu

There is a group of Grandview surfers that takes a trip to Namotu each year.  You will know them by the perma smiles they have from about May to December.  This trip they came back with photos.  Grandview local and good friend, Bob Houldin, was nice enough to share. I've never been but have had the pleasure of hearing all the stories. Someday I'll book my own trip and live it myself. Until then, I'll have to live through these. Enjoy.

Bob Holden enjoying a left in paradise. Bob moved to Leucadia in the 70's and has been a staple in the water ever since. You will know you're surfing with Bob when you hear a hoot from the outside and it continues to the sand. He gets the happiest local award for sure. Bob is always in a good mood and a pleasure to be in the water with. 

Surfers Journal's newest employee, Ross Garrett, was on the trip.

Ross with a little finless duck dive.

Nice spit. Story goes it was triple over head most days.

Ross setting up for the bottom turn.

A classic shot of the stoke you just can't help but feel for your friends when they get a great ride.

Another Grandview local Pete McRoskey enjoying himself. I surf with Pete all the time. He and Bob have been in Leucadia forever and have the place wired.  They are also some of the nicest guys in the line up. 

What the rest of us missed.

Don't Forget--Fish For Thought Saturday at Del Mar Power House

FISH for THOUGHT 

MILE of ART on the beach in Del Mar

TEACHES KIDS, COMMUNITY, ABOUT RECYCLING

Featuring Rodney McCoubrey

If you can go down and support Rodney! It's his first huge event like this giving back to the community. 

We're proud of you Rodney!

 

Elementary students' artwork display from recycled materials (trash to treasure)

with local artist Rodney 'Rodrigo' McCoubrey this Saturday, May 30th. on the beach in Del Mar

 

 

 A mile of marine-themed artwork—colorful concoctions  of scrap wood, old toothbrushes, aluminum soda tabs, popped balloons and the like, mounted on recycled sticks--winding "Christo style" along the scenic Del Mar coastline.  Trash to treasure - a message of HOPE and RECYCLING.

 

Mini-masterpieces, the kids call Fish Sticks, will be proudly created and displayed to tell the tale ending ocean pollution.

 

This simple recycling/art project by 400 Del Mar Elementary School children has taken on a life of its own in their hearts and minds, while heightening ocean pollution awareness.  Fish For Thought will culminate this  Saturday, May 30th, from Power House Park North to Dog Beach in Del Mar in an all-community beach cleanup and coastline art installation along Del Mar beach. 

 

 Local recycled-trash artist Rodrigo (aka Rodney McCoubrey) will help them create their own one-of-a-kind recycled wooden fish, embellished with recycled trash collected from the beach and home. www.FishForThought.org

 

Filmmakers will be onhand to document this grass roots effort and are fundraising to complete an educational documentary.  Del Mar hopes to highlight this pilot program as an example of what a community can do to reverse the negative impact trash makes on our beaches and ocean - a small community with a big message.

 

Local Chief Lifeguard Pat Vergne says,  “Our community is using art to raise awareness about trash and the negative effect it has on the health of our marine life and our coastal community.  We are thrilled to be supporting the Fish Sticks exhibition and the 5th annual Keep Del Mar Clean community beach clean up as we kick off our city’s new recycling program.”

 

Additional partners in the project include the City of Del Mar and environmental group “Keep Del Mar Clean.” 

 

Beach clean up will take place from 9:00 a.m. until 12:00 p.m. at Power House Park in Del Mar.

 

Fish Sticks will be on display 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. , Power House Park north to Dog Beach in Del Mar, this Saturday May 30th.

 

  www.FishForThought.org

Blog Shopping My Dream Quiver

With everyone getting new boards I decided to go blog shopping and pick out a few for my Dream Quiver. Even if for a few moments I can dream of having these boards in my possession. Who knows, someday I will? (Manny, Dennis, you want to hook a blogger up?) After looking around for a while I found a couple that caught my eye. Since this is only a dream I'm going to have a big quiver so there are plenty more blogs to look through. For now these will be the first two I add to my collection.

Mandala 5'10" Wingless Quad Fish

(originally posted as a 5'11" but I'm stuck on my magic number.) What can I say. You have to love Manny's work. His boards are like eye candy. I believe this is the the same board Eli rode at Black's that day David got shots.  Oh my. If I get the board could I surf like that?

Murphy 9'-0" Competitor 2+1 

18" x 22 3/8" x 14" : 3" thick

If you are going to own a longboard it has to be a Murphy in my book. Especially in Leucadia.  Not many people know this but the Iron Cross and the Bear surfboards at the Longboard Grotto were all shaped by Dennis. I don't own a longboard right now and need one in my quiver so this is a must have. Chris Miller has one that I've ridden and it is a really fun board.  It's light, it can turn and it is super fun to (attempt) to nose ride. I'm not known to venture far away from my fish but when I do, this is the board for me. It's almost not fair though, I get entirely to may waves. I almost feel bad while in the line up. ALMOST.

Chris' TLP 7'8" Murphy

Hanna running for her life.

Chris surprised me with a TLP laminate. 

Chris showing some love for his new ride.

Chris stopped by with a new 7'8" Murphy. Dennis' 15,132 shape. He brought a board just like this to Fiji and ended up  leaving it behind as payment for boat access.  It was a hard call but a mans got to do what a mans got to do. The board worked liked magic there so he had to replace it.  He was like a little kid. Thoughts of some secret spots in Fiji kept filling his mind.

Here's to the Groms

The best part of being 7 years old and 4 feet tall is that you have a really good chance that it will be head high or bigger. Here's a shot of a local grom getting a nice little left at Swami's.  

When looking at this photo it brought me back to when I first started surfing. It was in 6th grade and I can remember my first green wall. After spending countless days riding white wash I finally had that Ah Ha moment of "this is what I want to do for the rest of my life." I think I made it to one knee but I can still see that green wall in my minds eye.  I think it was at Pipes. It was the most amazing and beautiful experience of my young life. 

It wasn't until later in life that I surfed half as good as the groms I now see.  But I guess the best part of surfing is the journey.  I'm sure it would be nice to pick up a board, paddle out for the first time, crack one off the top then stall into a nice barrel. But then again, think about all the lessons learned along the way that would have been lost.

Surfing is one of those things that tests our commitment and focus on what we want to achieve. It's one of those things that because it is hard, and because it takes years to become competent,  it keeps us challenged and entertained for the rest of our lives.  

Here is to the groms who are surfing better at 7 then my 18 year old self. May their journey be just as packed with the lessons and stoke it has brought me.

Photo by David Gray

My Man Logan Foster

 

Here is a nice, all be it blurry, sequence of 12 year old Logan Foster. Erik has been coaching him and he is really taking off.  The photos are from his dad Aaron. Any of you who know Aaron know that these shots are a miracle.  We have many stories of how David and I have taken amazing photos or video of Aaron and, although he means well, does not return the favor. (I have a video of nothing but ants and sand as he got the on off button reversed on a decent shoulder high day.) I proudly put this up as an acknowledgement of how far Aaron has come. 

I've known Logan since he was born. Our families were tied together and bonded through the love of Grandview.  We spent many swells sharing waves. Logan was my buddy and would come over to my house a lot with his brother Lucas. As they grew up Aaron and I would talk about how amazing it will be when they surf. 

After seeing these photos I flashed back to one day when Logan came over to my house to give me a "Presentation".  He had come well prepared for a 7 year old, complete with drawings and a pie chart. (Aaron was a sales rep and was famous for his pie charts.) When he came over he started to pitch me on how he wanted a skate park in his back yard. He told me that if I built one for him he would give me a percentage of his first million when he turned pro. Unfortunately Logan was barking up the wrong tree.  He had no idea my skills with a hammer were meager at best, so I congratulated him on a fine presentation and sent him on his way. Now, after seeing these photos... I should have done it.

Collage a la David

David sent me me this collage that I thought was cool.  Believe it or not a few of these shots where from his iPhone.  Can you pick them out? Enjoy.

Fish For Thought

Rodney "Rodrigo" McCoubrey is being featured in a documentary about a project he put together called Fish For Thought.  It is a program that teaches kids to make art from trash.  We featured him for the beacons beach cleanup and showed some of his work. This promo video shows what the kids did at Del Mar Hills Elementary. In this unprecedented assembly the kids made over 300 fish with the help of the teachers, parents and of course Rodney. Each child was asked to collect trash and bring it in for his/her fish.  Check it out and take a look for yourself. It was inspiring to say the least.

As a film making fan I must acknowledge Jon Cofinas for his efforts on this piece. I met Jon at the beach cleanup and was especially impressed when I saw his work. Jon has had the fun job of following Rodney around and gathering some amazing footage.  I can't wait to see the final film.

If you are interested is seeing the final unveiling of all 300 plus fish, go to Del Mar Beach May 30th for the unveiling. For more information contact Rodney Here.  

Surprise Guests - The Guys From Grain

Me, Mike, Brad and Murphy. No one more stoked then me right now.

New Channel Islands 6'2" Bisket, Dave Rastavich 6'8" Gun, Murphy 5'10" Balsa and Redwood Fish, The Leucadia Project 5'10" Waka

This board was started in Hawaii as the twin to Dave's board.

Photos by David

Click Here for some more photos.

Photos by myself and David

Have you ever had one of the days that you just stop and think... is this for real? Today was one of those days. It all started when I got an email late last night from Mike Lavecchia of Grain Surfboards asking me if it was OK if they stopped by to check on the progress of the my board.

Turns out they were going to be in town after going to the Ventura Sacred Craft show and had put us on their list of people to see. When I got the email I really couldn't believe it. I have been following these guys for over 5 years now, have spent countless hours drooling over their boards and even more hours mind surfing my own half built work in progress. I've always respected what they have done with their products and company but to go out of their way to hook up with me was mind blowing.

Knowing that they were coming I put out the word and shortly assembled a crew of board lovers to talk shop. Murphy and Cow Boy Dan showed up along with Erik, Lauren, David and Chris Miller. Their schedule was tight but we got to spend a good couple hours looking over their demo boards and getting advise as to how to proceed with mine. Both Mike and co-owner Brad Anderson are probably the most humble and mellow guys you will ever meet. At the end of it all everyone looked around and were blown away at what a good time they had. It's amazing how a little wood, glue and elbow grease can bring a bunch of strangers together.

Honestly this was probably one of the more surreal moments I have ever had. It's one thing to meet people you look up to at a trade show but a whole other deal to have them show up at your house. I really want to thank those guys for taking the time to do that and for signing the board for good luck.

If any of you out there have any interest in a Grain board or kit, give these guys a call and order one up. You won't be disappointed with the board or the guys that make them.

Click Here for some more photos from the day. Enjoy.

Photos by myself and David

Lauren Has Been Busy

My neighbor Lauren has been busy again.  I get to see all her work in progress when I stop by the studio.  She always has something going on there that inspires me. The one that caught my eye the other day was the wave painting. I really dug that.  She has also been doing some Jewelry that is really cool. Enjoy.

Photos by Erik Baldwin and Lauren

Grain Time Capsule

The Grain has been returned to me for a little project I'm working on. I've decided to make a time capsule on the inside of the board. I want to have all my friends and family sign or do art in it before it is sealed up for the final shape. Since the board has been a long time in the making, I felt it would be great to know that on every wave I have the people that mean the most to me with me on every ride.

Above is a picture of Chris Miller adding some Fijian money to it as he had just gotten off the the plane from a three week surf trip. He was one of the first to add his mark. So far though, my favorite, was my niece Grace. I had all my nieces and nephews sign and Grace, who is adopted from China, wrote her name on the board for the first time... ever. Her mom was there and was crying she was so happy. Now that's the kind of vibe that I'm hoping for on this board. With that kind of good energy, I'm sure to get some magical waves.

Throughout the project I'm going to document what everyone adds to it and do a final post.

One of My Favorite Shots

Do you know where this is? You do even if you don't think so.  The day of that huge swell of 2005 I was out taking a few shots and came across this view. Although there were 80 guys out 200 yards away this wave went unridden set after set. It's hard to tell but that wave is 15 foot plus.  

Breathe and Improve Your Surfing

Before

After

Last year some time a good friend of mine Karen Winter asked me if I wanted to come to a class she does called Breath Work. The class is hard to explain. It's a mix between slumber party, meditation and work out.  You don't do anything physical (you hang out under some blankets) but you do breath... A LOT. It gives you that same sort of buzz as yoga does but without all the side effects... see the Yoga No, No's at the the Collectic Life

I'm usually not a fan of anything that remotely involves a class but she told me I'd be OK and that it would be very good for me.  She said it was more of a spiritual experience then anything else.  

A spiritual experience I thought?  Humm. Living in Leucadia I like to think I'm down with the original locals, the ones that settled here in 1870 and danced in white robes in the Leucadia Park. (See the Leucadia Blog for details www.theleucadiablog.com) Trying to keep the Leucadia spirit alive I decided that I should give it a try.

Well... try it I did. I've lost count but I think I've gone to this class about 50 times. Turns out, Breath Work has a very interesting side effect. It helps my surfing!  Is there a better reason to go? 

I got so stoked on this that I started to drag my friends there.  Turns out that the process of this class just makes you feel better (stoked like crazy day in and day out) , helps your lung capacity (paddle better, hold your breath longer). It lightens your emotional baggage (hit the water feeling free and get into the session quicker. No time wasted working through your bad day before entering that stoke zone.) I even found that it improved my focus and balance. (Pulled more off the tops. Chris Miller knows I fall A LOT on those.)

The phenomenon of this side effect is one that has been shared by my friends.  I started to have so many come that we got our own Leucadia Project night.  The ones that keep coming back have had some interesting results. My buddy Bob has even noticed that it helps his golf. The next day after class he shot a 78 and beat his buddies. He became a regular after that.

If you want to try this out for yourself let me know. So far everyone I've brought has been blow away. Check out Karen's website for details.  www.ibelieveinbreath.com 

A Few From the Other Day

David was out shooting last Thursday and came back with a few nice ones. He was blown away at all the talent in the water.  Here is just a taste. Enjoy.

Nice Little Shot of Del Moro

David sent me this shot a long time ago and I just found it again. It was a series that got sent off to SurfLine. I'm not sure if this one ever made it up there or not but it was one of my favorites. Enjoy. 

Quad Fin - Yellow

Kipp and his two daughters.

Kipp stopped by today to show off his latest garage creation.  It is a 5'10.5" yellow resin tent quad fish he made for his friend Yoshi. Yoshi really wanted a yellow board with a lightening bolt on it.  I really like it. I really wanted to ride this one! Yoshi... once you get some wax on her can I take her out?

I have been featuring Kipp a lot as I am really impressed with what the guy can do out of a small space in his garage and with minimal set up. He is totally self taught and has confessed that he does this all with a very limited shaping and glassing environment. I think he embodies the old school spirit of board building.  Armed with some determination and natural skill he is able to build with his own two hands what the rest of us can only buy. And, he does this all while taking care of his two daughters. Which, as any of you dads know, that is a huge job in itself. 

To make it even cooler the boards even work. Erik has been test piloting them and can't get enough. Every time Erik sees Kipp pull up with a new board he is over seeing if he can ride them.