Here's to the Groms

The best part of being 7 years old and 4 feet tall is that you have a really good chance that it will be head high or bigger. Here's a shot of a local grom getting a nice little left at Swami's.  

When looking at this photo it brought me back to when I first started surfing. It was in 6th grade and I can remember my first green wall. After spending countless days riding white wash I finally had that Ah Ha moment of "this is what I want to do for the rest of my life." I think I made it to one knee but I can still see that green wall in my minds eye.  I think it was at Pipes. It was the most amazing and beautiful experience of my young life. 

It wasn't until later in life that I surfed half as good as the groms I now see.  But I guess the best part of surfing is the journey.  I'm sure it would be nice to pick up a board, paddle out for the first time, crack one off the top then stall into a nice barrel. But then again, think about all the lessons learned along the way that would have been lost.

Surfing is one of those things that tests our commitment and focus on what we want to achieve. It's one of those things that because it is hard, and because it takes years to become competent,  it keeps us challenged and entertained for the rest of our lives.  

Here is to the groms who are surfing better at 7 then my 18 year old self. May their journey be just as packed with the lessons and stoke it has brought me.

Photo by David Gray