Yesterday though it all changed. I was lucky enough to run into a good friend of mine at Beacons who was out for a walk. When I pulled up we started talking and then we both glanced out and saw some fun little waves come in. We looked at each other, both calculating in ours heads how long it had been since we surfed together and both agreed that it was good enough to call it a session.
I ran home to get my stuff and started to get sidetracked. My wife quickly reminded me that it was of course the shortest day of the year, if I wanted water time I'd better jump on it. When she said that I was almost angry at the universe. Shortest day I thought, I can't wait until I can surf until 8pm again. I brushed it off and road down to my spot. Out in the water was Bob, by himself, already enjoying a few rides. The surf was small but was surprisingly fun.
I paddled out and we started to enjoy these little rights that peeled like point breaks as they hit the inside sandbar. The two of us sat in the most amazing dusk sunlight as we took wave after wave by ourselves.
At the end of the session we walked back to our bikes and we both quietly acknowledged the turning point of what will become summer. The shortest day of the year is over and we are now slowly but surely working our way back to the longest.
Above is a shot that was sent to me by my friend Jason surfing Saturday morning. He had made the same discovery only about 8 hours earlier. He reported clean little rights with no one out.
Photo by Rob
MERRY CHRISTMAS
ReplyDeleteThanks for the site and thank you for posting Jason's pix. I am of course very proud of him, since I am his Mom. We are here on our semi-annual visit to Paradise from Chicago...
I am so excited that we can keep up with Neptune and the beach even while enduring blizzards in Illinois.
Keep up the good work and the beautiful photos.
xoxo
Sue Mellado